The right amperage for stick welding depends on three things: rod type, rod diameter, and welding position. A 1/8" E7018 runs at 110-165 amps, while a 1/8" E6013 runs at 80-130 amps. The charts below give you exact ranges for every common electrode and diameter combination.
The rule of thumb is 1 amp per 0.001 inch of electrode core wire diameter. A 1/8" rod (0.125") starts around 125 amps. That gets you close, but every rod type has a different operating window based on its coating chemistry, so use the charts for actual settings.
Master Amperage Chart
| Electrode | Diameter | Amperage Range | Polarity | Positions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E6010 | 3/32" (2.4mm) | 40-80 | DCEP | All |
| E6010 | 1/8" (3.2mm) | 75-130 | DCEP | All |
| E6010 | 5/32" (4.0mm) | 110-170 | DCEP | All |
| E6011 | 3/32" (2.4mm) | 40-85 | AC/DCEP | All |
| E6011 | 1/8" (3.2mm) | 75-125 | AC/DCEP | All |
| E6011 | 5/32" (4.0mm) | 110-165 | AC/DCEP | All |
| E6013 | 3/32" (2.4mm) | 40-90 | AC/DC | All |
| E6013 | 1/8" (3.2mm) | 80-130 | AC/DC | All |
| E6013 | 5/32" (4.0mm) | 105-180 | AC/DC | F, H, V-down |
| E7018 | 3/32" (2.4mm) | 70-110 | AC/DCEP | All |
| E7018 | 1/8" (3.2mm) | 110-165 | AC/DCEP | All |
| E7018 | 5/32" (4.0mm) | 150-220 | AC/DCEP | F, H |
| E7018 | 3/16" (4.8mm) | 200-275 | AC/DCEP | F, H |
| E7024 | 1/8" (3.2mm) | 100-160 | AC/DC | F, H |
| E7024 | 5/32" (4.0mm) | 150-210 | AC/DC | F, H |
| E7024 | 3/16" (4.8mm) | 180-250 | AC/DC | F |
These ranges come from AWS A5.1 and manufacturer data sheets. Your specific brand may vary slightly, so always check the manufacturer’s recommendation printed on the electrode container.
Position-Specific Amperage Adjustments
The chart above shows the full operating range. Within that range, you’ll adjust based on position:
Flat Position (1G/1F)
Use the upper half of the amperage range. Gravity holds the puddle in the joint, so higher amperage gives better penetration and faster deposition without the pool running away. For E7018 at 1/8", that’s 140-165 amps.
Horizontal Position (2G/2F)
Run at mid-range amperage. The puddle wants to sag under gravity, so you need enough heat for fusion but not so much that the bead droops. For 1/8" E7018, try 125-145 amps. Use a slight upward rod angle (5-10 degrees above perpendicular) to fight gravity.
Vertical-Up (3G/3F)
Reduce amperage 10-15% below flat settings. The puddle fights gravity directly, and excess heat makes it run down the joint. For 1/8" E7018 vertical-up, run 110-130 amps. A weave pattern (triangle or J-weave) pauses at the toes to build up the shelf. See Stick Welding Vertical Up for technique.
Overhead (4G/4F)
Reduce amperage 10-15% below flat settings, similar to vertical. The puddle is directly above you, and excess heat drops metal on your arms. For 1/8" E7018 overhead, run 110-130 amps. Keep a tight arc length, one rod diameter or less. See Stick Welding Overhead for full technique.
| Position | Amperage Adjustment | 1/8" E7018 Example | 1/8" E6010 Example |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat | Upper range | 140-165A | 100-130A |
| Horizontal | Mid-range | 125-145A | 85-115A |
| Vertical-up | Lower range (-10-15%) | 110-130A | 75-100A |
| Overhead | Lower range (-10-15%) | 110-130A | 75-100A |
Rod Diameter to Material Thickness Guide
Choosing the right rod diameter is as important as setting the right amperage. Too large a rod on thin material causes burn-through. Too small a rod on thick plate wastes time with excessive passes.
| Material Thickness | Recommended Rod Diameter | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 16 gauge (1/16") | 1/16" or 3/32" | Stick is marginal this thin. Consider MIG or TIG. |
| 14 gauge (5/64") | 3/32" | Low amperage, fast travel, skip welding may be needed |
| 12 gauge (3/32") | 3/32" | Manageable with stick at reduced amps |
| 1/8" (3.2mm) | 3/32" or 1/8" | Practical lower limit for comfortable stick welding |
| 3/16" (4.8mm) | 1/8" | Sweet spot for 1/8" rods in all positions |
| 1/4" (6.4mm) | 1/8" or 5/32" | 1/8" for root/all-position, 5/32" for flat fill |
| 3/8" (9.5mm) | 5/32" or 3/16" | Multiple passes, preheat may be required |
| 1/2" (12.7mm) and up | 5/32" to 3/16" | Multi-pass required, preheat per code |
General rule: the rod diameter should not exceed the thickness of the thinnest piece being welded. For multi-pass welds on heavy plate, the root pass uses a smaller rod (3/32" or 1/8"), and fill passes use larger rods (5/32" or 3/16") for faster deposition.
How to Dial In Your Settings
Charts give you a starting point. Here’s how to fine-tune on actual metal:
Step 1: Set the Starting Amperage
Pick the midpoint of the chart range for your rod and diameter. For 1/8" E7018 in flat position, start at 135 amps.
Step 2: Run a Test Bead
Weld a 3-4 inch bead on scrap material of the same thickness and type you’ll be welding. Pay attention to these indicators:
Amperage too low:
- Rod sticks to the workpiece on startup
- Bead is narrow and convex (tall, humped)
- Slag runs ahead of the puddle
- Poor wetting at the toes
- Frequent arc outages
Amperage too high:
- Puddle is difficult to control, spreads too wide
- Excessive spatter
- Undercut along the toes of the bead
- Burn-through on thin material
- Bead is flat or concave with rolled edges
Amperage correct:
- Arc sounds steady with a consistent crackle (not popping or sputtering)
- Bead is slightly convex with smooth, well-fused toes
- Slag covers the bead uniformly and peels easily
- Puddle follows the arc without surging ahead or lagging behind
Step 3: Adjust in 5-Amp Increments
If the bead isn’t right, adjust 5 amps up or down and run another test. Small changes make a noticeable difference with stick. Once you find the sweet spot, note the setting for that rod/diameter/position/thickness combination.
Step 4: Adjust for Position Changes
When you move from flat to vertical or overhead, drop 10-15% from your flat setting. The puddle will tell you if you need more or less. If it runs, you’re too hot. If it freezes before wetting out, you’re too cold.
Amperage and Arc Length Relationship
Amperage and arc length interact with each other. This is unique to stick welding because the power source uses a constant-current (CC) output.
Longer arc length: Increases voltage, decreases amperage slightly, widens the bead, reduces penetration, increases spatter. Too long and the shielding fails, causing porosity.
Shorter arc length: Decreases voltage, increases amperage slightly, narrows the bead, increases penetration, reduces spatter. Too short and the rod sticks or the flux coating shorts against the puddle, contaminating the weld.
The ideal arc length is approximately one core-wire diameter. For a 1/8" rod, that’s about 1/8". You can’t measure this during welding, so train your ear and eye. A correct arc length produces a steady frying-bacon sound. A long arc sounds like a buzz or hum. A short arc crackles sharply and may pop.
Duty Cycle Considerations
Your machine’s duty cycle limits how long you can weld at a given amperage. Duty cycle is expressed as a percentage of a 10-minute period. A machine rated at 150 amps, 60% duty cycle can weld at 150 amps for 6 minutes out of every 10 before needing to cool down.
Most small shop stick welders (200-250 amp rated) have 30-60% duty cycle at maximum output. In practice, stick welding at typical amperages rarely hits the duty cycle limit because you stop every few minutes to chip slag, change rods, and reposition.
If you’re running long beads on heavy plate at high amperage (200+ amps with 5/32" or 3/16" rods), the duty cycle matters. The machine will get hot. If the thermal overload trips, let it cool for a few minutes before resuming.
Troubleshooting Amperage Issues
Arc keeps going out mid-bead: Amperage too low, or arc length too long. Increase amps by 10 and shorten the arc. If it still goes out, check your ground clamp connection and cable condition.
Excessive undercut along both toes: Too much amperage or too slow a travel speed. Reduce amps by 10 or speed up your travel. If only one toe undercuts, your rod angle is pushing the arc to one side.
Bead piles up and won’t flatten: Amperage too low. The puddle freezes before it can wet out. Increase amps in 5-amp increments. Also check that your travel speed isn’t too fast.
Rod turns red hot above the arc: Amperage is too high for the rod diameter. The excess current heats the electrode’s core wire above the flux coating. Reduce amps or switch to a larger diameter rod. This happens most often with 3/32" rods at the top of their range.
Machine struggles or bogs down: You’re pulling more amps than the machine can supply. Drop to a smaller rod diameter or reduce the amperage setting. For generator-powered welding, this usually means the generator is undersized.
Spatter increases dramatically at higher amperage: Some spatter increase with amperage is normal, especially with E6010 and E6011. But a sharp jump in spatter often means your arc is too long for the new amperage. When you increase amps, the arc voltage also rises, effectively lengthening the arc. Compensate by pulling the rod closer to the workpiece. If spatter remains excessive, you may have exceeded the rod’s optimal range. Check the chart and verify you’re within the published limits.
Weld looks good flat but fails vertical: You forgot to reduce amps for the position change. A setting that produces perfect flat beads will almost always be too hot for vertical-up or overhead. Drop 10-15% immediately when changing from flat to out-of-position work. Then fine-tune with a test bead. For a detailed breakdown of vertical technique, see Stick Welding Vertical Up. For overhead, see Stick Welding Overhead.