TIG Dip Technique: Filler Rod Rhythm, Timing & Coordination

The dip technique is the fundamental filler rod skill in TIG welding. You advance the torch, dip the filler rod into the leading edge of the puddle, withdraw the rod, advance again, and dip again. This rhythmic “dab and move” cadence produces the stacked-dime bead pattern that TIG welding is known for. Every TIG welder develops a personal dip rhythm that becomes as automatic as breathing once practiced enough.

The two variables that matter most are where you dip (always the leading edge of the puddle) and how much filler you add per dip (determined by rod diameter, how deep you dip, and how long the rod stays in the puddle).

The Basic Dip Sequence

Step 1: Establish the Puddle

Start the arc and build a puddle by holding the torch stationary or advancing very slowly until the base metal melts and forms a shiny, fluid pool. On steel, you’ll see the metal go from dull to bright and form a round, reflective puddle. Don’t add filler until the puddle is established.

Step 2: Dip the Filler

With the puddle formed, bring the filler rod tip into the leading edge of the puddle. The “leading edge” is the front of the puddle in the direction you’re traveling. The rod should enter at a shallow angle (15-20 degrees from the workpiece surface) and touch just the front portion of the puddle.

The tip melts off a small amount of filler into the puddle. How much melts depends on:

• Rod diameter: Larger rod deposits more per dip
• Puddle temperature: Hotter puddle melts more filler per contact
• Contact duration: Longer contact = more filler
• How deep you push the rod: Deeper = more surface area in contact with molten metal

Step 3: Withdraw the Rod

Pull the rod back about 1/2 inch from the puddle. Don’t pull it completely out of the gas envelope. The hot rod tip oxidizes instantly in open air, and that oxide deposits into the next dip, contaminating the weld. Keep the rod tip within 1 inch of the puddle and inside the shielding gas coverage.

Step 4: Advance the Torch

Move the torch forward slightly (1/16" to 1/8") to position the arc on fresh base metal at the leading edge of the puddle. The previous dip of filler is now solidifying behind the arc.

Step 5: Repeat

Dip again, withdraw, advance, dip. The rhythm is constant. Each dip-and-advance cycle creates one ripple in the bead. Consistent timing creates uniform ripple spacing (the stacked-dime appearance).

Rod Angle and Hand Position

Rod Angle

Hold the filler rod at 15-20 degrees from the workpiece surface, almost parallel to the base metal. The rod tip approaches the puddle from the front (the direction the torch is heading). A steeper angle (30+ degrees) causes the rod to dip into the center of the puddle instead of the leading edge, which blocks the arc and disrupts the bead.

Hand Position

Rest your filler rod hand on the workpiece or the welding table to stabilize it. The rod feeds through your index finger and thumb, with the remaining fingers acting as a guide and rest. Most welders let the rod slide through their fingers as they feed it, rather than gripping and repositioning.

Your filler hand and torch hand should be roughly opposed: the torch approaches from one direction and the filler enters from the other side. On right-hand torch setups, the torch moves left-to-right and the filler rod enters from the right side of the puddle.

Feed Distance

Keep enough rod extended past your fingers that you can make 10-15 dips before needing to slide more rod through your grip. Stopping to reposition the rod mid-bead creates an interruption in the bead pattern. On a 6-inch bead at 3/32" filler, plan for about 4-6 inches of rod extension past your fingers.

Dip Cadence Variations

Slow Cadence (1 Dip per Second)

One dip and advance per second. This produces a bead with about 1/8" ripple spacing. Good for beginners because each movement is deliberate and visible. The bead has a pronounced, evenly spaced ripple pattern.

Medium Cadence (2 Dips per Second)

Two dip-advance cycles per second. This is the most common cadence for general TIG work. The ripple pattern is tighter (about 1/16" spacing), and the bead looks more uniform. Most experienced welders default to this pace.

Fast Cadence (3+ Dips per Second)

Rapid dipping for experienced welders on long runs where speed matters. The bead ripples are very close together, and the bead appearance approaches a smooth, almost continuous fillet. This cadence requires automatic muscle memory because there’s no time to think about each dip.

Intermittent Dipping

On some joints, you don’t need filler on every advance. Autogenous sections (where the base metal provides enough material) alternate with dipped sections. This is common on edge joints and thin material where adding filler at every interval would overfill the joint.

Lay Wire Technique

Lay wire (also called “continuous feed” or “walking the filler”) is an alternative to the dip-and-withdraw method. Instead of dipping the rod in and out, you keep the rod tip continuously resting in or just above the leading edge of the puddle while you advance the torch.

How Lay Wire Works

1. Establish the puddle.
2. Place the filler rod tip on the leading edge of the puddle.
3. Advance the torch and the rod simultaneously. The rod stays in contact with the puddle or barely above it.
4. The filler melts continuously into the moving puddle.
5. Your filler hand pushes the rod forward at the rate it melts, maintaining contact with the puddle’s leading edge.

When to Use Lay Wire

• Long, straight runs on mild steel and stainless where speed matters
• Autogenous-plus joints where you need just a little extra filler
• Thin material where the dip-and-withdraw motion adds too much filler per cycle
• Machine-like consistency on repetitive production welds

When Not to Use Lay Wire

• Thick material requiring heavy filler deposits per inch
• Out-of-position welding where the rod needs to be withdrawn between dips to prevent the puddle from growing too large
• Complex joints requiring variable filler amounts along the joint
• Aluminum where the dip-and-withdraw rhythm coordinates with puddle control

Lay Wire vs. Dip Comparison

Coordinating Dip with Pulse TIG

Pulse TIG alternates between a high peak current and a low background current. At low pulse rates (1-3 PPS), you can coordinate your filler dip timing with the pulse cycle for maximum consistency.

Low PPS Coordination (1-2 PPS)

At 1-2 pulses per second, each pulse is clearly visible and audible. The puddle grows during peak and partially solidifies during background.

Timing: Dip the filler rod during the peak current phase, when the puddle is hottest and most fluid. The filler melts quickly and flows into the joint. Withdraw during the background phase, when the puddle is cooling and partially solidifying. Advance the torch during the background phase so the next peak hits fresh base metal.

This creates a rhythm: peak-dip, background-advance, peak-dip, background-advance. Each cycle produces one uniform bead ripple with a consistent amount of filler.

Medium PPS Coordination (3-5 PPS)

At 3-5 PPS, the pulses are fast enough that precise dip-per-pulse timing becomes difficult. Most welders dip at their normal cadence and let the machine pulse independently. The pulse still reduces average heat input and produces a refined bead pattern, but the dip rhythm doesn’t need to match the pulse frequency.

High PPS (30+ PPS)

At 30+ PPS, the pulses are too fast to perceive individually. The arc feels continuous with slightly different character than non-pulsed. Dip at your normal rhythm. The high-frequency pulse refines the arc and puddle behavior in the background.

Pulse Settings for Dip Coordination

Common Dip Technique Mistakes

Dipping into the Center of the Puddle

Placing the filler rod into the center or back of the puddle blocks the arc and creates a cold spot. The filler melts from the puddle’s residual heat rather than the arc’s direct energy, resulting in a humped bead that doesn’t fuse well at the toes. Always dip at the leading edge where the arc is actively melting base metal.

Pulling the Rod Out of the Gas Envelope

Withdrawing the filler rod more than 1 inch from the puddle exposes the hot tip to air. The tip oxidizes and the next dip deposits that oxide into the weld. On stainless steel, this creates dark spots in the bead. On aluminum, it causes porosity. Keep the rod tip inside the gas coverage at all times.

Using a gas lens helps because it extends the gas envelope further, giving you more room to withdraw the rod without leaving the protected zone. See the TIG cup size guide.

Inconsistent Dip Amounts

Some dips add a lot of filler, others add barely any. This creates a bead that varies in height and width along its length. Practice making each dip identical: same depth, same contact time, same withdrawal distance. Consistent inputs produce consistent outputs.

Holding the Rod in the Puddle Too Long

Leaving the rod in the puddle for more than a fraction of a second melts too much filler into one spot. The bead humps up at that point. Dip and withdraw in a quick, single motion. Think of it as touching a hot stove: brief contact, immediate withdrawal.

Rushing to Match Someone Else’s Cadence

Every welder’s dip cadence is personal. It depends on hand speed, rod diameter, travel speed, and joint type. Don’t try to match a video tutorial’s speed if it doesn’t feel natural. Find the cadence that produces consistent beads for you and build speed gradually.

No Cadence at All (Random Dipping)

Dipping whenever it “feels right” produces an inconsistent, lumpy bead. Develop a rhythmic cadence, even if it’s slow. Rhythm produces consistency. Count in your head if needed: “dip, move, dip, move” at a steady pace.

Practice Drills

Drill 1: Bead on Plate Without Filler

Weld autogenous beads on flat mild steel plate. Focus on consistent travel speed, arc length, and puddle size. This isolates the torch-hand skills from the filler-hand skills.

Drill 2: Bead on Plate With Filler, Stationary

Hold the torch stationary and practice dipping filler into the puddle. Don’t advance. Just dip, withdraw, dip, withdraw. Get the rod angle and dip motion into muscle memory.

Drill 3: Bead on Plate With Filler, Advancing

Combine travel and dipping. Weld 6-inch beads on flat plate. Count dips per inch to check consistency. A good target is 4-6 dips per inch at medium cadence with 3/32" filler on 1/8" steel.

Drill 4: Stringer Beads Side by Side

Weld parallel beads, each one overlapping the previous bead by about 1/3 of its width. This simulates fill passes and tests your ability to maintain consistent dip amounts while also watching the overlap zone.

Drill 5: Fillet Weld T-Joint

Weld a fillet on a T-joint. This adds the challenge of directing the arc between two surfaces while maintaining dip rhythm. The filler must flow into both legs of the fillet.

Drill 6: Pulse Coordination

Set your machine to 1 PPS. Practice dipping once per pulse. Watch and listen for the peak phase, dip during it, withdraw during the background phase. Once coordinated, increase to 1.5 PPS, then 2 PPS.

Material-Specific Dip Notes

Steel

Steel is the most forgiving for dip technique. The puddle holds its shape well and the filler melts predictably. Practice all drills on mild steel first.

Stainless Steel

Stainless puddles are more fluid than steel. The filler melts and flows quickly. Use slightly quicker dips with less contact time. Keep the rod inside the gas envelope to prevent discoloration. See TIG welding stainless steel.

Aluminum

Aluminum puddles are extremely fluid and require the fastest dip timing. The filler melts almost instantly on contact. Add less filler per dip than on steel. The dip cadence is typically faster because the puddle grows rapidly. Using a foot pedal to reduce amperage as the piece heats up is essential. See TIG welding aluminum settings.

Chromoly

Same dip behavior as mild steel. No special technique adjustment needed. Focus on consistent heat input rather than filler technique. See TIG welding chromoly.