TIG Welding Positions: Flat, Horizontal, Vertical & Overhead Technique

Every weld joint on a real project involves at least one non-flat position. A T-joint on a table leg is horizontal. A seam on a tank wall is vertical. A bracket welded to the underside of a frame is overhead. Knowing how to adjust your TIG technique for each position is the difference between a shop welder and a field welder.

The fundamentals don’t change between positions: maintain arc length, control heat input, feed filler into the leading edge of the puddle. What changes is torch angle, amperage, travel speed, and how you manage the puddle against gravity.

Position Designations

The American Welding Society (AWS) designates welding positions by number:

Pipe positions (1G through 6G) combine multiple plate positions around the pipe circumference. See TIG welding pipe for pipe-specific technique.

Flat Position (1G/1F)

Flat is the baseline position. Gravity holds the puddle in the joint. You’re looking down at the work with comfortable hand and arm positions. Every welder should dial in flat-position technique before attempting other positions.

Torch Angle

Hold the torch 15-20 degrees from vertical, tilted in the direction of travel (push angle). This gives a clear view of the leading edge of the puddle and keeps gas coverage over the solidifying weld.

For fillet welds, split the torch angle between the two pieces. On a 90-degree T-joint, aim the torch at 45 degrees between the horizontal and vertical plates, with the 15-degree push angle added in the travel direction.

Amperage

Use full chart amperage. Flat position requires no reduction because gravity helps the puddle sit where you want it.

Filler Technique

Feed filler into the leading edge of the puddle at a 15-20 degree angle from the workpiece surface. Dip, withdraw 1/2", advance the torch, dip again. The rhythm should be consistent. On flat work, the puddle is the most stable, so this is the position to practice establishing your dipping cadence.

For detailed dip technique, see TIG dip technique.

Horizontal Position (2G/2F)

Horizontal welds run along a horizontal axis on a vertical or near-vertical surface. The puddle wants to sag downward due to gravity. This is the most common non-flat position because any weld on the side of a structure is horizontal.

Torch Angle

Groove welds (2G): Angle the torch 5-10 degrees upward from perpendicular to the joint. This directs the arc slightly above center, counteracting the puddle’s tendency to sag.

Fillet welds (2F): For a horizontal fillet on a T-joint, aim the torch slightly toward the upper (vertical) plate. The puddle will sag toward the lower (horizontal) plate on its own. By directing more heat upward, you achieve even wetting on both legs.

Amperage

Reduce 5-10% from flat settings. The puddle is less stable, and less heat helps keep it small and manageable.

Travel Speed

Slightly faster than flat. If you slow down, the puddle grows too large and sags into a drip at the bottom. Keep the puddle small by maintaining a steady travel pace.

Filler Technique

Feed filler from the upper side of the joint, angling the rod slightly downward into the puddle. This helps gravity pull the filler into the joint instead of fighting it. Dip quickly and withdraw. Holding the rod in the puddle too long adds too much metal that sags.

Common Horizontal Problem: Undercut on Top, Overlap on Bottom

The puddle sags downward, leaving a groove (undercut) along the upper toe and excess metal (overlap or rollover) along the lower toe. Fix this by:

• Directing the arc more toward the upper toe
• Reducing amperage to keep the puddle smaller
• Increasing travel speed
• Using a slight upward torch angle

Vertical Position (3G/3F)

Vertical welds run up or down on a vertical surface. Gravity either fights you (welding up) or helps you (welding down). TIG vertical welding is almost always done uphill (welding from bottom to top).

Vertical Up (Uphill)

This is the standard direction for vertical TIG. Welding uphill, the puddle stacks against the solidified bead below it. Gravity helps create a convex profile with good penetration.

Torch angle: Point the torch 10-20 degrees upward from perpendicular to the surface. Some welders point nearly straight up into the joint, directing the arc into the unwelded metal above the puddle.

Amperage: Reduce 10-20% from flat. The puddle wants to run downhill, and less heat keeps it small enough to control. A pedal or fingertip control is essential because you’ll modulate constantly.

Travel speed: Slower than flat. You’re building up each section before advancing, allowing the metal to solidify enough to support the next dip of filler. Watch the lower edge of the puddle. If it starts to drip, speed up or reduce amperage.

Filler technique: Feed filler from above, angling the rod downward into the top of the puddle. Dip, let the metal flow into the joint, withdraw, advance the torch slightly, dip again. The rhythm is slower than flat because you’re waiting for each addition to solidify enough to support the next.

Vertical Down (Downhill)

Vertical downhill TIG is uncommon. It’s used on very thin material (22 ga and thinner) where you need to move fast to prevent burn-through. The puddle runs ahead of the arc, which can cause lack of fusion if travel speed isn’t carefully controlled.

When to use downhill TIG: Only on thin sheet metal where uphill technique puts too much heat into the material. Downhill travel speed can be 2-3 times faster than uphill, significantly reducing heat input.

Torch angle: Point the torch 10-15 degrees downward in the direction of travel. Keep a short arc to maintain puddle control.

Common Vertical Problem: Sagging Puddle

The puddle grows too large and drips or sags before solidifying. Solutions:

1. Reduce amperage by another 5-10%
2. Speed up slightly between dips
3. Add less filler per dip
4. Use pulse TIG (1-2 PPS gives the puddle time to solidify between pulses)
5. Keep the puddle small by advancing consistently

Overhead Position (4G/4F)

Overhead is the most demanding position. Gravity pulls the puddle directly away from the joint surface. Every excess drop of molten metal wants to fall on you. Small, controlled puddle size is non-negotiable.

Torch Angle

Point the torch straight up into the joint, perpendicular to the surface or with a slight 5-10 degree push angle in the travel direction. Keep the arc length short (1/8" or less) to maintain a tight, controlled arc cone.

Amperage

Reduce 15-25% from flat settings. On mild steel, if flat runs at 120A, start overhead at 90A and adjust from there. The puddle must stay small enough that surface tension holds it against the joint surface. Too much heat and the puddle drops.

Travel Speed

Faster than flat. Don’t let the puddle grow. Move at a pace that keeps the puddle about 1.5-2 times the width of the filler rod. If it grows beyond that, speed up or reduce amperage.

Filler Technique

Feed filler upward into the puddle from below. The rod angle is reversed from flat position. Use the smallest practical filler diameter to minimize the amount of molten metal per dip. Quick dips with immediate withdrawal. Don’t hold the rod in the puddle.

Pulse TIG for Overhead

Pulse is extremely helpful for overhead work. The background current phase lets the puddle partially solidify, and the peak phase adds the next crescent of fusion. At 1-2 PPS, the puddle stays small and controlled.

Recommended pulse settings for overhead:

• Peak: Your reduced overhead amperage (15-25% below flat)
• Background: 25-30% of peak
• PPS: 1-2
• Peak time: 40-50%

Common Overhead Problems

Dripping puddle: Too much heat or too large a puddle. Reduce amperage, speed up, use pulse, and keep filler dips small.

Poor penetration: Too little heat from over-reducing amperage. The puddle sits on the surface without fusing. Find the balance between enough heat for fusion and not so much that the puddle sags. The foot pedal helps find this sweet spot dynamically.

Inconsistent bead: Overhead fatigue causes inconsistent hand movement. Take breaks. Support your arm and torch hand whenever possible by bracing your wrist against the workpiece or a nearby surface.

Amperage Adjustments Summary

These are starting points. Every welder develops personal preferences based on hand stability, body position, and experience. Use a foot pedal or fingertip control to fine-tune in real time rather than relying on fixed amperage settings.

Body Position and Ergonomics

Flat

Sit or stand comfortably with both elbows supported if possible. This is the easiest on the body and the best position for long welding sessions.

Horizontal

Stand to the side of the workpiece. Your torch arm may be extended for long reaches. Support your torch wrist on the workpiece edge whenever possible to reduce arm fatigue and improve stability.

Vertical Up

Position yourself so the weld runs upward in front of you. Your torch hand starts low and moves upward. For long vertical runs, plan stopping points where you can readjust body position rather than stretching beyond a comfortable range.

Overhead

The most physically demanding position. Your arms are above your head, fighting gravity. Your neck cranes upward to see the puddle. Wear a bandana or leather cap under your hood to catch spatter. Use the lightest torch possible (water-cooled torches are lighter because the torch body is smaller). Take frequent breaks to prevent neck and shoulder fatigue.

Brace your arms against the workpiece, a ladder, or a scaffold whenever possible. Unsupported arm movement overhead produces shakier, less consistent beads than braced movement.

Practicing All Positions

Flat First, Always

Master flat-position beads before moving to other positions. All the fundamentals of arc length, filler timing, puddle reading, and heat control are learned on flat work. Moving to other positions before flat technique is solid compounds errors.

Position Progression

1. Flat until beads are consistent and uniform
2. Horizontal fillet welds (most common out-of-position joint in real work)
3. Vertical up on plate
4. Overhead on plate
5. Pipe positions (combine all four)

Practice Coupons

Cut practice coupons from scrap plate: 3" x 6" pieces of 1/8" to 3/16" mild steel. Tack them to a vertical surface for horizontal and vertical practice. Tack them to the underside of a shelf or table for overhead practice. Weld, grind, and reweld until each position feels natural.

Use TIG welding steel settings for baseline amperage on mild steel practice coupons.